Weight lifting for climbers reddit. do strength training.

Weight lifting for climbers reddit this is one workout with 60s rest. This is my first time posting to this sub, and I'm just looking for some helpful advice. I've worried about weight in the past but after I tracked it for a while and climbed 8b at both 180 and 198 I decided it's more trouble than it's worth to deal with. ) Sidebar: Get Powerful. I’ve always been active, participated in many sports, and enjoyed strength training. My goal is to get to 3 days lifting/2 days climbingbut I understand that they is a bit away, so got 3 To keep it simple, you could do three weeks of focusing on hard moves for two of your sessions, along with strength training for one of your sessions. Overall, this training plan seems like way too much volume. 11+/5. J Strength Cond Res. 12 around 155. Differences in climbing-specific strength between boulder and lead rock climbers. 5 year experience article on strength training, hangboard, and implementing training for climbing. This new fad of lifting weights to avoid injuries hasn't been around very long and isn't done regularly by a large amount of people (despite what climbharder likes to tell people). Training one muscle around other muscles tends to cause the other muscles to compensate to some degree. Finger strength rules everything in climbing, and that's just never hit correctly in regular weight training. Hello climbing community! I'm seeking your input on optimizing finger strength training. The amount of climbers who don't lift weights is enormous. (2) Fanchini M, Violette F, Impellizzeri FM, Maffiuletti NA. Right now my squat is ~180lbs, bench ~100lbs and deadlift ~210lbs. Personally I’m an ultra runner, alpine soloist and do a lot of bouldering. Most grip trainers are semi useless. Not necessarily because he's the best, his ethos just seems to make sense to me. com Oct 12, 2018 · Lifting two or three times a week, even if it’s just 10-12 weeks out of the year, will have a noticeable effect on your muscular strength. Feb 23, 2025 · For context, I’m 18 years old and I’ve been climbing since I was a kid, overall I have good strength in the standard climbing related metrics. I am getting conflicting information about weightlifting as a supplement to climbing (plan is to climb 3x a week) using Eric Horst's 6 week mesocycle plan. 1. With specific nutrition and training, females can increase lean mass, power-to-weight ratio, and type II muscle fibers—the fast-twitch type crucial for dynamic moves. If you want to help your body out, eat well, get enough rest, stretch after climbing, do antagonist training, and eat/drink something that has sugars and protein in it after climbing to aid recovery. strength training is a method designed to increase strength by improving the neuronal components of strength and power production. A subreddit for general weight training discussion, focused on intermediate level and above in experience and strength, for those ranging from strength sport competitors, sports that benefit from weight training, or weight training enthusiasts. a combo of running and strength training. Some can be combined into supersets as well. i climb 2x a week. Obviously, early on you want to take it easy because you haven't built up the foundation strength, but even pros hurt tendons. I don't do a huge variety of exercise and keep the rep low/intensity high. I am a sports performance coach (17 years of experience) and an ultra runner/solo climber and general alpine adventure guy living in Washington state. Reddit's rock climbing training community. I couldn't disagree more with a lot of the advice in this thread. Training your crushing grip strength as part of a well rounded hand/forearm prehab/strength protocol is great, training it as a substitute for climbing is not. According to current science, this looks like: Training at a variety of loads beyond 60% of your 1RM (80% to 100% for experienced athletes). Wednesday: finger strength day Refer to Climbing workout down below Thursday: antagonist day 500m row warmup Front squats 3x8 (2 warm-up sets) Overhead press (heavy) 3x8 Pull-ups 3x5 Push-ups 3x8 Tripod rows (light) 3x8 Dips 3x5 Friday: Rest Saturday: gym climbing Sunday: Rest Finger strength day: If you are pulling as hard as you can in the climbing gym and in the weight room, you may be setting yourself up for fatigue and overtraining symptoms. 5-2 hours on Wednesday, training climbing as per Louis Parkinsons recommendations. There is no route where you need to do 40 BW pullups. At what point will weight lifting be beneficial for climbing? I've been climbing for 2 years and would consider myself a solid v7/8 climber. I would recommend a proper calisthenics or weight lifting program to supplement your climbing. I’m addition, wanting to get better at climbing, can motivate you to e. 2x/week for each when you’re training and not going on climbing trips/trying to peak. Alternatively you could try adding one strength exercise to your program every two weeks to slowly ease into it. 13 I could get my hands on) or so. If I can just get myself to eat enough to get in the 140-150lbs range I feel like I'll be happy. Apr 25, 2023 · (1) White DJ, Olsen PD. As you get more conditioned it will be easier to do both climbing and strength training. being able to turn your hips fully out and power out of the bottom of a DEEP high-step on a shitty foothold is ALWAYS applicable to I don't think a strength training day affects my performance the next day all that much. I'm pushing 200 at over 6'. Both target finger and grip strength, but I'm curious about their comparative effectiveness for climbing. Sims recommends 2–3 days per week of strength training. I've gone to the gym on and off for severa Haven't made the switch, but I've written up a 7. 8x bw would have been better spent on rows, and from the training I see other climbers doing I wouldn't be surprised if it's a 'mistake' (if that's the right word) that others are making too. 11a /V4) with goals of getting to 12a/V6. Assuming your primary goal is to improve climbing, I’d try schedule climbing days after rest days or easy cardio sessions. So while climbing isn’t the most efficient way of neither losing fat or gaining muscle, it is, to some, a more achievable way of staying fit/healthy. Jan 25, 2022 · A good training program should be flexible and accommodate minor whims, so that you can actually go rock climbing! Continue Reading Phase Eight. Have any of you tried both these methods? I got into climbing a few years back and absolutely adore the sport. Mar 15, 2016 · Adding strength training into a climber’s routine will help prevent imbalances, create powerful/flexible hips, and improve grip/finger strength. Placing MY ideal climbing weight around 20 BMI but ideal training weight around 22. Start with these 8 movements here. Ever since I thought my fingers were able to handle it, I've been training to be a better rock climber. g. But in short and very generally speaking: Warmup (obvs), 3 sets of 5-4-3 reps increasing weight for deadlifts. I began strength training seriously when I was 18, and saw some big increases in muscle mass and strength relative to my size. Isolation work is isolation work-- it's not sport specific. Please leave any extra curricular training (ie: anything other than climbing/bouldering) for the first two years. Fair point. Also if you add more strength training you should make sure you are eating more to adequately recover. Max. Before climbing I was really into powerlifting and I still love weight lifting. How long have you been lifting alongside climbing for? I think any climbing regiment should be supplemented with some sort of general strength building program. I’ve worked full time as a sports performance coach for endurance and mountain athletes for the last 17 years. He needs to climb with a focus on efficient movement patterns, precise footwork, and not relying on strength for quite some time still. I dropped the lifting volume a bit from pre-climbing days for sure though, but still get at it. (Great point though!) For most people cycling wont be worth it but for competitive climbers the small amount of water weight might be worth projecting around. A lot of climbers use both barbells and bodyweight so it's not about switching completely but what helps you improve the most. I can still climb 5. It's like telling someone that training the plank hold for core is stupid because of every time you're on the wall using your core in a different way. 1x Mmm, not quite. And when you're doing 4 x 150% BW pullups-- for training-- you're not trying to simulate climbing directly. As much as people hate to hear it, when it comes to grip strength in the early years of climbing, climbing is the best training for climbing. Everything else is really If you want to workout to get better at climbing I'd recommend 3 things, 1. OP already posted that he enjoys weight lifting, it takes extremely minimal strength to climb the 9 to 10 grades and he has been climbing for one month. There is a huge problem within sport climbing of climbers being at unhealthy low weights. I'm debating between two methods: hangboard + weights vs arm lifts using a small edge with added weight. They climb harder but suffer with mental and physical health, including eating disorders and RED-S. I'm 5'11 and weigh 140-145 pounds. Strength Training Takeaways. Hangboards and no hang devices are the best substitutes for long periods of no climbing, 6 weeks is actually a great timeframe for a training cycle too! The Rock Climber’s Exercise Guide contains everything essential for building a training plan including stability and antagonist training for injury prevention minus the “filler” content like psychology, eating, climbing technique… read a lot, liked this the most. Stupid comment. The effect on my climbing performance has been massive, but that's because I had a bunch of weakness that strength training adressed. Then take a week with reduced load, then for the next 3 weeks focus on endurance and technique drills from “Rock Climbing Technique: The Practical Guide to Movement Mastery” and 4x4s twice a in my climbing gym i have access to squat rack , bar and weights , pull up bar and dips, i want to climb must of my time in the climbing gym but i would like to incorporate some strength training compound movements so ill get stronger here what my plan is, going to the gym for 1. But increased strength on its own did not equal increased grades for me. read rock climbing training manual by Anderson bros, 3. Other than that - learn to climb This makes purely climbing a terrible stand-in for weight training. I specialize in programming strength plans for ultra runners, alpine climbers and indoor climbers. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. It's important to mentally accept your lifting is not helping you become a better climber, and is actually a active hindrance to you right now for two reasons: (1) your level of strength combined with total climbing inexperience puts you at a higher risk for finger injury, (2) strength can get you sending problems/routes very ineffectively and Usually leg strength is not what's holding you back, so I wouldn't focus on this. I started bouldering when I was 20 with some friends, but was never climbing more than once a week for a month or so at a time. When I lift, I do A: bench/row/squat B: press/weighted chins/deadlift. Obviously you should climb a lot if you want to be a better climber. I just started climbing 4 months ago (have been lifting for a decade now) so YMMV. i’ll start with 4 or 5 miles, then go to 7 or 8 Yep that makes sense of course, I suppose more what I mean is that it's obviously an aspect of strength that I've neglected, and a lot of the time I spent progressing my weighted pullup from 1. I’m bouldering v4/v5 and top roping 5. Training finger strength, weighted pull ups, shoulder stability/strength, and flexibility all helped me improve. I’m doing a 5x5 strength training program right now and I’ve seemingly been able to progress just fine. i also do a lot of really long walks in the beginning of our season here when we can’t hike above certain elevations just to get used to being on my feet for long periods. do strength training. 2. 5-2 hours 3-4 days a week: Hi guys, basically been bouldering coming up to a year now and want to make my training a bit more climbing specific. Nobody is advocating for not climbing in addition to pinch training. Stay in the 5-10 rep range to build strength and not muscle size or endurance (increase weight or switch to harder exercise variation if it gets too easy), and do about 3-4 sets for each exercise. being said i do pull-ups 3x a week. 5-2 hours on Monday, just climbing to the best of my ability. i do 1 set of 10 no weight, 3x 7-9 with weight, then one set of 10 no weight. 2013; 27(2):310-4. read 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes. Strength gain means an increase in fibers used for the motion, which can either be by increasing the size of the muscle, or by making the muscle use a larger % of fibers at each movement (I think that for someone who doesn't train for this, you only use 40% of your muscle fibers on any one move, whereas someone who does can get 70-80%). It can be a slippery slope and the gains you get initially can get you hooked on losing more and more weight. My weight has only gone up about 5-10 lbs, to around 160 lbs, and I’m 5’8”. See full list on healthline. its actually amazed me the mobility defecits you can cover up with bilateral back squats compared to unilateral lunges, pistols etc. i’m short so i use poles and can’t get away with only working my lower body. But climbing is ultimately (once your technique and mental focus get to a certain point) about your power-to-weight ratio, and weightlifting is one of the best ways to improve that. Or for people to tell /u/WeaponizedSleep to eat more. Get a hangboard for home training, it will do wonders for your grip (forearm) strength. Hey r/Fitness. Also climbing outdoors is basically climbing with added weight. I forget that other people have schedules that allow climbing or training many days per week. YOUR INDEX FOR THE COMPLETE YEAR-LONG TRAINING SERIES BY COACH NEIL GRESHAM Phase One: General Conditioning Phase Two: Low-Intensity Endurance Phase Three: Strength Training Phase Four: Power Endurance Been climbing for 9 years, and just started lifting this year and I currently can do 3 days lifting, and one day climbing indoors (and maybe a day outdoorsas bouldering outdoors seems to be try real hard for 2 min and rest for 20). My names Kyle. A 2-day program should prioritize compound movements (like deadlifts , pull-ups , and squats ) and climbing-specific exercises (like weighted hangs and fingerboard work). A time motion analysis of bouldering style competitive rock climbing. 4x bw to 1. Practice holds and gain strength while taking creatine and than stop a week or 2 before going for a big send to drop the water weight and make it a little easier. 12's/working any . Climbing is a strength-weight ratio dependent sport afterall so it makes sense to lose weight to perform better but I think you need to make sure you don’t get carried away with this logic. To keep it brief, I'm a 31 year old male who is about 10-15 lbs overweight, and I'm looking to get back in shape and build some muscle. My technique sucks right now since I just started so a large part of these gains have been through muscling moves. I almost exclusively boulder (Altho I’m slowly working on my sport climbing), and I shape my strength training around my climbing. I'm just about to start taking my climbing (bouldering in particular) seriously. Good luck and hope it helps. Oct 18, 2024 · Lifting weights twice weekly is an ideal baseline for climbers focused on improving strength and climbing performance. I’d drop it down to two weight training days (running either full body or an upper/lower split) and maybe a light cardio day. It takes 2 or 3 months of climbing before your ligaments start to strengthen at all. 2010; 24(5):1356-60. My fingers and forearms tend to wear out well before my biceps and core, so I like to cooldown on v4/v5 for a while to continue training those, since my next climbing or training day is often 3 to 4 days away. Hi, I am building out my training plan (right now 5. my max pull-up is 26 strict form chin over bar. I never wanted to get much higher in weight regardless, but focusing on strength-weight ratio is pretty fun and I like to keep the bodyweight lower for climbing. If you’re considering adding a lifting routine into workouts to improve your climbing, here are a few things you should know: May 8, 2023 · Unfortunately, most climbers that I consult with are intimidated by strength training. Once you progress in your climbing, that's where I'd spent my time with supplemental exercises to work on getting stronger for climbing. The best workout routine for rock climbing is rock climbing a lot, but I know what you mean about schedule getting in the way. Should I be trying more hard climbs rather than spending Sep 30, 2022 · TLDR: Max. . I usually mix 2 bouldering sessions a week with gym workouts in between, but wanting to know best sort of workouts that will compliment climbing. I feel best/healthiest around 145/140. Your mileage may vary. If that’s you, contact a weightlifting coach like Natasha Barnes ; they can show you what to do and help you avoid getting hurt. The amount of us out there who climb hard and don't lift weights is enormous. 5" climber, My peak climbing weight WAS 130/135 (onsighting or flashing all 5. i do pull-ups apart from my climbing (military) and i only climb super recreationally and for fun. I started lifting in April and have been debating if I want to keep doing weight training or focus on climbing and/or calisthenics. I specialize in building strength and conditioning programs for endurance/mountain athletes and just wanted to drop a note to introduce myself. I think usually it's part of a strength training cycle, and they're doing 4x4s or something like that (a standard climbing training protocol where you do 4 moderately hard boulders in a row without a rest, followed by 4 minutes rest X 4 sets), or some variation of that. My lifts are similar, I single leg Bulgarian squat, OHP, weighed pull-ups, horizontal row, dips, and variety of rotator cuff lifts done at a low weight (I tore my shoulder a few years ago). As a fellow 5'8. Climbing is more fun that lifting weight or going for a run for many people. Finger strength training is not recommended without climbing 2x or more a week for a year due to the historical use of hangboards at body weight load. Flexibility work, hangboards, campusing, rings, you name it. Climbing can be good at building strength but you will develop imbalances as it focuses primarily on pulling motions. buy a training plan for an easy start (assuming you want to get started right now training and have $$$), 2. and just do that 3x a week. Several climbers have spoken out about this over the last couple of years for example, Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, Beth Rodden, and Janja Garnbret. It is not specific enough for climbing. 11b. Used to do more before I started climbing, but still lift decent weight, mostly during my performance/rest phase of climbing training. 2 sets of 5-8 reps of ~40% body weight for squats. My plan is as follows: 1. I don't have any difficulty with explosive, big moves, but that's not what most climbing problem is about. Also, too long of a cycle training strength in both your climbing and lifting can lead to overuse symptoms, specifically the elbows. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. developing that mobility and end-range-of-motion strength has been quite satisfying and also more directly applicable to climbing. Climbing training techniques have been deeply studied and developed throughout the last few decades to the point where extremely dedicated people have very tried-and-true training methods to get them to climbing their hardest grades without having to reinvent the wheel. I believe having greater awareness has helped me apply my strength gains more easily. All important elements to compliment climbing specific training and become a stronger climber. Nov 20, 2017 · (See “Fuel the Fire,” as well as How to Maintain Climbing Strength as You Age. ekz oiibarv dodnbd xwosgsrb riofrd sesys dubh ipyh ixcvh zxevt