Top belay with atc In this guide, we’ll cover the following: What is belaying? Where can I learn to belay? Belay commands; How to top-rope belay; Belaying with an ATC or other tube-style device; How to lower with an ATC; Belaying with a Gri-gri or other assisted-braking device; How to Nov 28, 2018 · Our most versatile belay and rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. With the rappel rope anchored in at the top, grasp the rope and make a small loop. Oct 26, 2017 · I do not want to buy a new atc, but want to start doing multi pitch climbs. Black Diamonds ATC devices are among the most reliable ATC belay devices for rappelling and are used by millions of climbers worldwide. 1. Mostly I lead on double ropes. I use an ATC-Guide. When the time comes to buy your own belay device, check out our article, How to Choose Belay Devices. And belaying a lead climber can be quite different, especially on a brake-assist device. Setting up your belay One of the first skills you need to master once you start climbing is how to belay. Universal Belay Advice: Pay Attention May 5, 2025 · The ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso have quite a bit more friction than the GriGris, but even worse is the Edelrid Giga Jul, and worse still is the Mammut Smart 2. This can be set up so the brake rope comes out of either the top or bottom of the belay device – choose whichever way is easier to lock off the brake rope. In most situations, the weight of a falling climber will pull down from you Jan 14, 2019 · (Hopefully this is obvious, but this rope needs to be fixed in some way at the top anchor, either directly tied, or looped through an anchor point like a standard rappel. Aug 6, 2021 · GriGri vs. LOCK THE CARABINER. Complete Guide to Top Rope Belaying - Tips & Common mistakes. It offers basically all the features of the ATC XP, as well auto-locking top-belay for belaying seconds. You can use an ATC-style device to belay a climber on top rope or lead, from above or below the climber, and you can also use it to belay two following climbers at once (or one climber using half and twin ropes). I know how to top belay 2 climbers simultaneously with the following ATC: Link. This Instructable is for reference purposes only, and is not meant to replace in- person training from a rock climbing professional. When the guide hand reaches the ATC, hold the rope fast with the brake hand, while sliding the guide hand up the live end of the rope until it is above the brake hand (Figure 2). Black Diamond’s original Air Traffic Controller, or ATC, took the belay scene by storm. Accordingly, lots of climbers in the market for a belay device wonder whether to buy a GriGri Jun 28, 2018 · Belay Device: Lastly, you are going to need a belay device. ATC. Conclusion Choosing a belay device is not an easy task, but the first step we recommend is assessing your own needs. Setting Up the Belay If you’re just learning how to belay, you’ve come to the right place. There are 3 methods of belaying from the top. Nov 3, 2020 · ATC Belay Devices. The ATC has two main uses: belaying a climber to safely stop any potential fall, and abseiling or doing a rappel down the route. Sticht Plate was the first belay device that applied for a patent in 1970. Attach the locking carabiner to your harness. 8 ounces and can accommodate ropes between 8. Top-rope climbing, or top-roping, is a method in which the rope is attached to a pre-set anchor at the top of the climb. ATC Setup for a Rappel. I worked for Black Diamond in 1990-1991 when the ATC was developed and had a small role in its evolution. With similar designs, the Nordwand and the ATC Guide Mar 15, 2023 · Stoked for climbing season? Let’s chat belay devices. This modern shit "we don't need no education! Some ATC-style belay devices have a 'guide mode' function - they can be set up in a way which locks automatically if a climber falls. Though the principles of belaying are the same whether it is for a lead climber or a top-rope climber, certain technical practices differ. With an ATC, the first step is to bend the rope into what’s known as a “bight” - a curve in the rope that does not cross itself (if it did, it’d be called a loop!). Aug 17, 2014 · The BD ATC-Guide is a tube-style belay/rappel device with friction ridges. Follow along with Gearheads Alex Quitiquit and Nils Mindnich as they dive into three of their favorite Mar 10, 2015 · They both will be climbing with approximately 15-20 feet of distance between them. ATC May 31, 2025 · With both hands firmly on the rope, the guide hand pulls the rope towards the ATC as the brake hand pulls rope out and away from the ATC (Figure 1). Is there anyway to belay while on top without a guide atc? Ultimately nobody should belay from a guide plate (e. It's also lighter. Lastly, lock the carabiner and double-check that the device is appropriately orientated and locked. It functions and is used the same way as the ATC, except it has an additional loop for belaying in guide mode. However, BD’s ATC was so popular that it had the “Kleenex effect. Dec 15, 2021 · By using a direct belay with a guide mode belay device, the belayer is free to move around the belay station while belaying. If your blocking carabine Two key terms before we begin: the part of the rope that runs from the climber to the belay device is known as the live end; the dead end is on the other side of the belay device, and is the part of the rope held by the belayer. Jul 11, 2024 · It’s worth noting that Black Diamond offers a similarly intentioned design in their ATC-Guide, which is largely identical to the ATC-XP above but with the addition of an auto-block release hole for top-belaying. Grigri vs. Oct 1, 2021 · The ATC Guide is pretty light at 80 grams and is designed to work best with 8. ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso in guide mode) before aquiring self resque skills. Feed the rope through your belay device according to the instructions that came with the device and attach the belay device to a locking carabiner. 9 to 11mm single ropes or 8. A $34. 7 to 10. Dec 22, 2022 · The ATC Guide: the ATC Guide is like the ATC’s big brother. 95 price tag for a belay device is pretty tough to beat. In this REI Expert Advice video, we show you how to prepare to belay, per Though basic top-rope belay is similar on many devices, a few details differ. The BD ATC-Guide is a tube-style belay/rappel device with friction ridges. The ATC XP: another belay device from Black Diamond inspired by the classic Dec 11, 2016 · PLUS is the most error-free top rope belaying technique. My belay device of choice for multi-pitch climbing is the ATC Guide, for its lightness, simplicity, and versatility. How To Belay With An ATC . What this addition achieves is threefold: Feb 21, 2020 · The Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a “geometry assisted” belay device for ropes in the 8. How does it work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or paying out rop AMGA Certified Rock Instructor Erik Kramer-Webb shows how to give a direct belay for the follower once you have led the trad pitch. Aug 28, 2021 · There are plenty: Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso, Mammut Smart, Petzl GriGri 2, Petzl GriGri +, and more. 5 mm range. Every climber will start off with learning top rope This video shows the AMGA standard way of belaying and lowering from the top with an ATC. 0. At Sportrock we will first test you on an ATC to make sure you are a capable belayer. I can top rope with a braking device, lead belay, and rappel with two strands from a singular device Feb 22, 2020 · Top Rope Belay With an ATC belay device Once the belayer has their harness on properly and the rope is flaked and ready to go, it’s time to load the belay device. AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) instructor Margaret Wheeler explains how to belay directly off the anchor for safety and efficiency. When the rope is weighted the angle of the device changes, locking the rope down, though, as we mentioned above, you still need to keep your brake hand on the rope. The document has moved here. Sit your weight onto your now auto-blocked belay device. Guide mode belay devices are designed to be auto-locking when correctly used in a direct belay; manufacturers instruct to always keep a hand on the brake rope , but by design, the belay device should lock automatically in Apr 28, 2025 · If you’re a newer climber, learning how to give a safe and proper toprope belay will also make you a much more desirable climbing partner. Both these devices can be used for multipitch climbing. Aug 26, 2021 · Here, I present a comparison review of Black Diamond’s ATC Belay/Rappel Device (ATC) and ATC-Guide/Rappel Device (Guide)—I believe that ATCs still have an important place in rock climbing. Assisted braking devices like the GriGri are designed to clamp down on the rope to help the belayer arrest a fall, which can add a layer of security but some argue that the device can make the Mar 10, 2025 · Begin belaying in top-rope situations for greater safety. I have been climbing for about 2 years, but only bouldering and top roping indoors, and I have only ever used a typical ATC belay device, which I am very comfortable with. This is the setup you will see in indoor climbing gyms. The belay carabiner, which would normally be clipped through your belay loop, is clipped only through the loop of rope (two loops if using double ropes) on the inside of the device and not the belay loop. It's durable, works well with thicker ropes, and creates less friction for the Its construction is based on the early Sticht plate. There are tons of belay devices on the market, and they are all good! The two most conventional and widely used belay devices are the ATC and the GriGri. Moreover, in the case of the seconding climber belay from top rope belay we can use self-locking feature of this belay device. Jan 4, 2024 · Tubular belay devices are sometimes generically referred to as ATC’s, owing to Black Diamond’s eponymous Air Traffic Control device that became the de facto standard belay device in the early 90s. Simply pull the brake strands through as the climber moves up. Jul 8, 2021 · The ATC is one of the most common belay devices used in rock climbing. 3a) From the bottom, I belay off my belay loop with the ATC and two carabiners O&O 3b) From the top, it depends on the situation and belay stance/anchors. It secures a climber as they are going up or down the wall. Feb 12, 2024 · The Black Diamond ATC-Guide is a device we commend for being able to do it all. A GriGri can generally handle a top belay just as efficiently as an ATC-Guide, and simul-rapping is an option when necessary. 00:00 Introduction01:18 Preparation07:11 Belaying13:52 Most Common Mistakes Camera & Assist Difficult to Place Climber On Belay During Lower; Long Application (takes time to set it up)*usually because you aren’t belaying climber to top of cliff with a direct tube style/ATC belay* Auto-Assistive Device aka “Gri Gri”: the Nitty Gritty, direct lower using a Gri Gri… rarely used in guide application. ATC: Which Is Best for Multipitch Climbing? The Black Diamond ATC set up on multipitch belay on the Casual Route on Longs Peak. . Since then, belay devices have continued to evolve. Best Uses for the ATC. ” I love using some sort of ATC for lead belay personally. Step into the foot-loop and stand up, taking the weight off your belay device. Nov 17, 2023 · An ATC has two primary uses: belaying and rappelling. Whichever device you use, be sure you’re comfortable and knowledgeable on how to set it up and use it well. To set up this kind of device in guide mode, secure it to the anchor using the second attachment point on the back of the device. They can be used as a normal belay device too. Step 3 Connect your belay loop to the auto-block hole on your belay device with a screwgate. The ATC-Guide offers smooth handling while you climb with its lightweight and easy-to-use construction. Make sure to keep hold of both brake ropes as you do this. Top-roping offers greater stability and a lower risk of serious falls than lead climbing. The ATC is virtually the most basic belay device you can find these days, if not the cheapest as well. What makes the ATC-Guide unique is the addition of two loops of aluminum. In this respect it is very much like its predecessor, the BD ATC-XP, and innumerable other similar devices. 1 to 11mm half and twin ropes. It teaches that one particular hand (usually a person's strong hand) will stay on the brake rope at It's optimized for standard belay techniques with versatility for single-pitch, multi-pitch, and mountaineering. It combines a standard tube-style design with the ability to belay following climbers directly off the anchor on multi-pitch climbs, conveniently “auto-blocking” to catch their falls. This well-rounded belay device doubles as a rappel device, and its capacity makes it our best bet for multi-pitch climbing. In top rope belaying, the climbing rope runs from the belayer’s belay device to the anchor point at the top of the climb and back down to the climber’s harness. Plate and tubular belay devices still have a place in modern climbing kits. 5 days ago · We will also feature some of the best Air Traffic Controller (ATC) belay devices from Black Diamond. It is possible to dynamically belay both leader and the second, while the second can be belayed by tope rope belay either with the body or from top belay station. This article will cover top rope belaying. My buddy Chuck Brainerd designed it as a variation on the Chouinard Micro-Belay Plates, which were really a variation on the Sticht Plate. Modern iterations of the ATC are not far off the original design. With an oval-ized anchor-hole, the device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. It’s one of the lightest belay devices out there, so it’s a top choice of our Gearheads looking to lighten their rack for long hauls to distant crags. Slide the loop into the top of the Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device (see on Amazon) along one side of the middle divide on the device. Also, I can confirm they are quite sturdy after (like an idiot) dropping mine from the top of a multipitch and it came out unscathed. Apr 27, 2021 · Just like many climbers have a pair of beater gym shoes, most of our testers have a beater gym belay device — and it’s usually an ATC-XP. The ATC is a dynamic belay device. Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power when lowering or rap Nov 6, 2022 · Attach the locking carabiner and ATC to the belay loop of the belayer’s harness. Method 2 - Belay Directly from your Harness Attach your belay device to either your belay loop or rope loop. Sometimes, I clove in tight and belay off my rope tie in loop, sometimes I re-direct, occasionally I belay directly off the anchor. May 28, 2024 · What we didn’t like: Not as smooth as the ATC and ATC guide. With an oval-ized anchor-hole, the belay device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. Includes belaying, lowering, a 3 to 1 pulley system for b Dec 13, 2023 · Manual braking belay devices like the ATC require the belayer to be at the top of their game, never removing their hand from the brake line while in use. If you’re asking what is an ATC, it is one of the most common belay devices used in rock climbing. Top rope is where a GriGri really stands out. You can set up guide mode as shown, with one rope or two. As a leader I would prefer to just carry an atc guide, as a follower I prefer to use a grigri and carry an atc for backup and as a rappel device. ATC stands for “Air Traffic Controller”, which is a tube-like belay device manufactured by Black Diamond. Dec 16, 2022 · After the Sticht Plate, the next best thing came in the 1990s. The GriGri and ATC (either the ATC-XP or the original ATC) are the belay devices we see most often at the gym. Please wait while your request is being verified AMGA Certified Rock Instructor Erik Kramer-Webb shares his top tips on top-belaying with a GriGri. g. How to Belay With an ATC Belay Device: Pull, Brake, Under, Slide! Belaying is fun, but dangerous. Therefore, it can be relatively limited in how it’s used. The ATC Guide is, in my opinion, the finest belay device ever made. This is a feature available in the Petzl Reverso line as well, but the key difference is that the carabiner eyelet is oriented perpendicular to that of the Reverso. Top rope belaying with an ATC Dec 5, 2024 · The Black Diamond ATC Guide provides the best value for multi-pitch climbing. The top of the ATC device will have the friction modes and the bottom will have the ATC loop facing Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. Compared to the Reverso, the ATC-Guide is a little cheaper at $35 but weighs more at 2. ATC-Pilot Belay Device – Black Diamond Moved Permanently. Sep 21, 2023 · Many people still belay with non-assisted braking devices like the ATC-XP. Since top-rope belaying is simpler, it might be best to master it before you try belaying a lead climber. Direct belay – this is the recommended method by climbing schools today; Redirected belay – this is the method used for many years and is still common today; Indirect belay; These 3 methods differ in how the belay devices are being set up and how the belaying is done. ) You simply rig your belay device just like you would to belay up your follower directly off the anchor, and clip the “anchor” carabiner to your belay loop. Mar 8, 2013 · Design History. The ATC is one of the most straightforward designs for a belay device on the market. However, the climbing world is slowly phasing out this style of belay device, much like figure-8 belay devices. Oct 12, 2022 · It flows a lot better than the Revo or ATC from top belaying (still locks up just fine) and is easier to lower a follower as well. Jun 21, 2023 · Belays are typical done using ATCs, ATC Pilots and Grigris. This classic tube style has gone from THE STANDARD throughout the 90’s / early 2010’s to uncommon by the 2020’s. If you are using the ATC or ATC-XP, be sure to clip the locking carabiner through the loop of the device and the rope. the ATC-Guide features a lightweight design, two friction modes and an auto-blocking guide mode that lets you belay a seconding climber off the anchor. The Mammut Nordwand Alpine Belay Device and the Black Diamond ATC Guide manage to match this price, while delivering all of the necessary components a belayer needs. In auto-block (Reverso) mode, you can simultaneously belay two followers. It’s very smooth to belay with and the teeth catch well for big lead falls, plus it holds well on top rope. For that reason, it is the preferred tool for multi-pitch climbing amongst all the ATC devices. However, I am looking to get into lead climbing and potentially start going outside once I'm comfortable with the basics of lead (and when New England winter allows it lol). An atc guide or similar device will allow you to belay from the top in guide mode, belay two partners from above, and rappel off the route. The Mega Jul is best for rappelling, however overall for a singular device to take outside, the Mega Jul is best. Here are some tips and the best method for giving a good toprope belay, whether you’re using a tube device like an ATC or a brake-assisted belay device like the grigri. This can be used for both single pitch and multipitch applications Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. fklle efucqh wxtrrgm yxbsc nywqc kjnb sfqa ebl owjni dvsukz