Dynee climbing sling vs runner reddit. And yes we are scared of falling.

Dynee climbing sling vs runner reddit I almost never climb with a gear sling, for this reason. Dyneema slings, on the other hand, have a higher load capacity at exactly the same weight, and a smaller diameter – which makes them ideal for adventurous sport climbing, multi-pitch climbing, and alpine tours. Of course, you wouldn't knot Dyneema webbing. rock horns for protection, or to connect you to an anchor. At ~5 bucks a sling you can get 10 for 50 and be set for a normal rack. Few things in a gym intimidate me—except maybe Band-Aids on the floor Dec 14, 2021 · Believe it or not, they can help your climbing, too—both indoors and out. The reality is, most of us use it on our draws, most of us use it in situations where falls aren't very common, and when dynema/dynex fails it's almost always when people girth two pieces of soft gear together, not from a crazy fall onto a sling. same as everything in climbing, the situation determines best practice. They are also light for alpine stuff. Aug 18, 2019 · In general, climbing slings these days are made of two different types of fibers: Dyneema (or another type of Ultra-High-Molecular-Weight Polyethelene), and Nylon. Clip the 2 runners together at the bottom with a locking carabiner. Mostly because its easier to untie an overhand knot or a clove hitch with it, and if you fell on it while using as a PAS its much safer than dyneema (see this scary DMM video showing 2 foot direct falls on slings). I use double length nylon sling to extend rappel or make a PAS for cleaning. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Ah, my favorite move in climbing, aka sorry for the wall of text. The home of Climbing on reddit. For dyneema I feel like most people prefer the mammut 8mm contact sling, but really any dyneema sling that has the bar tack sewn in will be perfect for using for years. So I posted this a few days ago, you may have seen it, but I think it illustrates a few things. 1x 240cm nylon runner that is rarely used, only for the biggest trees (and often as a basket hitch) or when the three pieces are in wildly different spots. I have spent almost my entire life climbing in gyms and am very comfortable in that environment. But at 16K the RV10 does 134KTAS while the Sling still does 145. In my opinion the extendable sling doesn't often offer enough extension to avoid using/carrying draws and n most cases, but will create an added margin of safety by allowing you to extend to avoid a feature that might cause the draw to unclip or lever over an edge. Very often people will throw, and then almost immediately look away, or at the ground, because, soaring through the air feels weird, almost like you're gonna fall! Climbing Slings, Runners & Cords. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee I agree. My BFF recommended Sling TV, so I jumped in. When my dyneema draws became rather fuzzy from use my partners started complaining about them & I replaced them with nylon. Four months after purchasing AirTV-2 from Amazon, the unit died. The discussion over nylon vs. Switching from DirecTV to Sling, we saved $60 a month. Cheers. I found a video of some guys testing another brand of sling rated for 24 kn, and it breaks at ~31 kn. Dynamic moves can help you skip blank sections of rock, and they ultimately save energy because they require less time gripping tiny holds, thus making them more efficient and less physically taxing. Clip 1 runner onto each of the anchor point carabiners. There are few things for which i am certain, but i'd bet money there isn't an all around better system. I have a double rack of cams, one set friends, one set C4s. In a top-roping situation, your anchor slings are fine: they are 1) likely under constant load (i. Black Diamond Stepup 6 . Filter. 5x the single line rated load. Looks easy once you figure the beta but took good 15 attempts I like to use a runner-runner (aka sling-sling) to free up some biners and room on my harness. I swear this is the first thing that anyone told me when I started climbing. Pros Dyneema slings are great for setting up anchors, slinging things for protection etc. Clip your climbing rope through the bottom locking carabiner(s). If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. Personally I think the stretch in Nylon is a bit of a red herring. 1x 120cm nylon runner, often used for a clove v configuration or girthing a medium tree when I'm not worried about redundancy. Pickup. I’m looking into getting into more alpine climbing so I was wondering what’s best for me moving on. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. Think I'm the only one that's gone back to nylon. ETA: I’m not concerned about climbing weight as much as overall pack weight for multi-day excursions. -similarly, dont forget to use your wrists to propel y Been a long time since I used 60 cm nylon slings for the last time. How are slings constructed? Slings can be constructed in two ways: They can either be sewn or seamless. Dyneema has very little stretch and falling with a dyneema sling attached to an anchor can generate a massive amount of force, sometimes enough to break the sling. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. dyneema slings is a long one and worth reading up on. $26. Climbing slings like that have pound-force ratings (giggity) rather than pound mass ratings. The only numbers I can find after a quick search is at 8K feet the RV10 will do 171KTAS while the Sling does only 145. 79Oz Certification: CE1019 EN566 / UIAA 104 Light weight while of high durability to 22kN Low cost while versatile in Draws made from slings and biners (aka alpine draws) are nice for trad climbing when you're climbing multiple pitches below your limit. Climbing Slings. SHIPPING . RV10 will go faster Till you get higher. and over the years have also seen many sport climbers bring a couple 60cm (and even longer sometimes??) alpine draws for their projects (difficult clips, minimising rope drag Just canceled Sling TV last Sunday, St Patrick's day. Sling Length Specifically, buying oz runner kits and splitting the silver biners that come with them into two draws using a spare runner and two orange hoodwires. the nylon vs dynema thing isn't anything new. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. History & Real-World Application. I personally think gym climbing and outdoor trad stuff are starting to split in terms of moves/skillsets, and shouldn't be as compared as the trad guys think. You might be cutting feet and relying on your hands/arms a lot in dynamic climbing while in static climbing, you're always on your feet. The slings they had were these specialty endless slings made of Kevlar in some fancy higher denier nylon. doubling the loop doubles the strength of the system. The melting temperature doesn't really matter either - I don't think there's been a single documented case of melted slings in alpine draws during proper use. Context is everything. In short, nylon is heavier and stretchier, while dyneema slings are lighter, less absorbent, and more slippery. Knots, wind and weather. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. I have a big background in backpacking and long hikes. rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. And keep in mind anyone on the internet with a strong opinion hasn't had enough experience yet. Just totally absurd and your video reminded me of those A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. For nylon slings I honestly don't think it makes much difference. Climbing in a gym doesn't help, precision isn't required as often as it is outside on small incut holds, so I got in the habit of dyno-ing all the time. Though it can be made a number of ways, a sling (also known as a runner) is typically created by sewing a webbing section into a loop. Personally, I think the whole static vs. Apr 25, 2012 · On slabs, the gear swings forward and gets in the way; on steeps, the gear sling swings back and feels like it is pulling you off. I hope that helps anyone here or future google search users that land on this page. Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. It is easy to begin focusing on the catch too early and forget about the legs. A few pointers: -rock your body in a way such that you are naturally on an upswing when you push off. Substitute the sling with a PAS system and it's even more practical. 6 million pounds. I still usually have the extra biners racked as a football at the back of my harness in case I need them, but usually rack 4 or 5 slings on the sling (as shown in the video), maybe more if I am expecting a pitch with slung chickenheads for pro. I'm on the hype train, and I'm excited to start using overcoming isometrics and left-side/right-side protocols for a lot more training. Dynex is a brand name for “high-molecular-weight polyethylene” fiber, which is essentially the same exact material that makes up Dyneema or any of the non-Nylon choices in this review. I still use the odd 120 cm nylon slings here and there, as it's a little bit dynamic and it's easier to untie knots. See full list on outdoorgearlab. A few slings are also made of a blend between the two types of fibers. There is a third type of sling, made of cord similar to a climbing rope. Don't bring a hammer as a one size fits all when you really want a screw driver. the accessory cord is not climbing specific so it's rated for single line loads and lists the breaking TBH, i dont think dynos are very representative of actual outdoor climbing, and people who gym climb to get better at outdoor stuff probably look down on it. The one HUGE exception to my gear sling hatred is for some squeezes and OWs, where it is advantages to have the gear on a sling on the outside-side of your body. e. In a basket hitch, the rated working load was like 1. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. I am a fan of Sterling power cord after only one climb. Additionally, dynamic climbing is more stressful on your hands and tendons. Watching it again, I hadn't realised that Nalle was there and filmed on the same problems which you can see here. You can also use them on natural features like trees, threads, and chickenheads. And this is at 4GPH less. That’s interesting because I’m the opposite! As a 5’0” climber I find myself solely being comfortable with static moves — of course I can’t do them on all climbs, but where it fails I can use my flexibility to do a high knee or something — whereas when a problem is set up with a dyno it’s so much beyond my reach (ie a dyno for a 5’10” climber) that me even trying is laughable. A good rule of thumb on the Tsi is whatever performance numbers they have published are probably fudging to the conservative side vs. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic So currently I use a pre built quad with a 120cm sling for sport climbing. These uses tend to not be very rough on slings. So, it looks as though Sling TV will be a keeper for me. Unless you really fuck something up any stretch in the anchor should be negligible compared to the stretch in the rope (i. the rope should always be taking the brunt of the force out of a fall, slings just transfer the force. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device , replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling . I added Sling TV as an addition to my YTTV package because of the YTTV ESPN/Disney debacle, although now resolved, and enjoy Sling TV very much. Add To Cart. -Focus on generating power through your feet the entire time they are in contact with the holds. I carry 5 nylon and 5 dyneema slings. 95. You can either cut up your cordelette, cut up one of your nice expensive Dyneema slings or take my sage advice about carrying at least one tied runner. the single strand now has to take half the shared load. rated strength is NOT even close to a direct measure of safety, since an anchor is a system and no single component should ever be subjected to the breaking strength of a cord. Photos in some of my old climbing books show Brit climbers using tied cordage for extenders. 82 votes, 66 comments. This is probably mostly a climbing myth perpetuated by the article that's quoted in the above link As an aside I don't think anyone outside of totally new climbers pay full price for slings. Ok so I have been climbing for a little over 5 years, spending most of my time sport and trad climbing with small bits of bouldering scattered in here and there. I have yet to discover a single downside compared to other systems. I don't really appreciate the shock of going from gym climbing to rock climbing the first time, but part of the reason I go to the gym, personally, is because it's fun. A sling can be used as an extended quickdraw to allow your rope to run straighter and decrease friction on wandering routes, or it can be used to set up an anchor. Called Sling tech support and was on hold for >3 hours! a basic knot will reduce the strength of the rope by ~50% as a general guideline. the traditional "yeah this is a 4-seat airplane (whispers under breath but it only carries two). 1x 120cm nylon runner tied into what I call a "baby quad". Most common applications are alpine draws, slinging e. It seems silly, but it helps. I still carry at least one tied double length runner because it's easy to untie and thread/use for rap tat. They allow two different options for extension, ~20cm or 60cm. ) How many slings with a single biner do y’all carry vs alpine draws? I’m tempted to cut down to 6 alpines to save a few oz on biners, as I don’t foresee placing more than 6 nuts per pitch, but I’m kind of nervous about not having enough. Now, you can learn from Carlo himself when you take Climbing’s Master Dynamic Movement course. Lock your carabiner(s). As far as streaming goes, it has been doing relatively well without buffering and PQ issues over these 2 weeks. Hi, new to reddit so dont even know if this is likely to get an answer but worth a shot. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. Keep your eyes on the hold you're going for the entire time. no risk of a static material taking a dynamic load) and B) the rope absorbs a lot of the dynamic force of falling. In the World Cup’s early days, finals rounds took four-plus-minutes, meaning if you were on the wall when your time ran out, you could continue climbing until you finished or fell. Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. The sewn runner is only 8mm wide but also webbed with a red band, which cannot be Dyneema. Ship. 240mm dyneema/nylon sling is also great, especially if you're not worried about complicated belay stations. Now back to now, I'm trying to improve outside but mainly climb inside, and I see myself struggling with two things : incut holds and my hold-milking habit where I re-ajust multiple times on Apr 12, 2019 · The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. You can usually get them 40% off if you shop the sales. g. When I bring someone new, I don't tell them that it's great practice for climbing, I tell them it's like playing on an adult jungle gym. Nov 10, 2015 · Some write it off as a circus trick, but understanding how to generate strength and do big moves is crucial for climbing hard boulders and routes. but imo, should not be used to clip in for safety on a multipitch. Shop for Slings at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. In a girth hitch they were like 300,000ish pounds. best to gain experience using slings, cord, rope and develop a feel for what works best for YOU in THAT situation. I have looked at both the RV10 and the Sling. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. TL;DR: If you like Oz carabiners the runner sets are a great deal. That's all been replaced by dynema slings. if it is, you did something else very wrong. Jan 6, 2019 · GM CLIMBING 16mm Nylon Sling Runner Specification Length: available in 30cm / 12inch, 60cm / 24inch and 120cm / 48inch (flat pull) Width: 16mm / 5/8inch Material: Tube Nylon Webbing Breaking Strength: 22kN / 4950lbf Weight: 30cm-24g / 0. As others have said, if the quickdraws could bump against rock then could be worth a quad for top rope. And yes we are scared of falling. As others have said. They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. Lastly, there are two things you should keep in mind: Knots can decrease the strength of slings to about 60%. ps: i like to clip the excess sling on the strand i have to pull for the next rappel. in practice this increases overall breaking strength by about 1. I tend to prefer the friends for the reasons you've mentioned. Im getting more into trad climbing where obviously alpine draws are pretty much your go to for clipping your rope to cams, nuts etc. Personally, I have a 7mm, 6mm, and 240mm sling in my closet since I like variety and they're inexpensive as far as trad climbing gear goes. Also slings tend to last quite a long time - I have had mine for at least a thousand pitches of climbing and they are holding up. The label on that is the actual breaking strength of the sling, rather than the 10x safety factor you see on industrial stuff. I have just in the past year started dedicated training in an attempt to breakthrough a v6-7, 5. The bottom line is that these videos are talking about what happens when static material is dynamically loaded. Dyneema. The slings were like 6” in diameter and like 20’ long. Bad things (can) happen. First, it shows that someone like myself can get good at dynos even though I have a terrible vertical off the ground. It's amazing to see the determination it took him to do La Puce where Anthony made it looks so easy. dynamic is a moot point considering you should never take a direct fall on either spectra or nylon slings. com Feb 9, 2023 · They often contain a lot of white and are very thin, as is shown in the picture (manufacturer Mammut). I just put this together from closet gear after receiving a Tindeq as a gift a few weeks ago. Its stronger to connect 2 slings with a carabiner or use a long sling, but it doesn't strike me as that silly of a thing to do as long as you know the outcome. 49Oz, 120cm-79g / 2. 85Oz, 60cm-42g / 1. Jun 7, 2024 · Carlo Traversi says the best way to become a better climber is to master dynos. . When I flew the Tsi it was Jean, myself and my wife in the back and it seriously couldn't stop climbing. If it was small diameter (1/4" Goldline) it was usually doubled. No real reason, just the nylon slings were really cheap & the weight and bulkiness doesn't bother me (except if you use them with those small ultra-light 'biners but I hate those things Aug 31, 2020 · Black Diamond Nylon Runner; Petzl ANNEAU Polyester Sling; How to Choose the Best Climbing Slings for Your Needs Nylon vs. For situations that will put a lot of abuse on gear, like top rope anchors or multi-pitch anchors, I like cordelette or tied nylon runners. I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. 1. Keep slack out of your static anchors. But you get what you pay for. 12c-ish plateau. Lock the carabiners. Black Diamond 10 MM Dynex Runner 180 CM Rope . For redundancy, you can clip in another locking carabiner, in an opposite and opposed direction. Posted by u/prussick - 21 votes and 49 comments Without a doubt, it's Rainbow Rocket from this video. With that said, I definitely think you should be working on static climbing, especially if you're tall and have long arms like you say. tta lznk jjkg ouapx tyrdyd wmhupl lpett qogp aauluv bjypf