Heel hook climbing injury The first heels you throw will likely be low and at normal foot height, but eventually you’ll master heel hooks above your head. 2 Soft Today, practising for the comp, (no viewing) flash attempts, 4mins timer, I’ve pulled my hamstring/ glute and the pain is unbearable. Apr 10, 2016 · From treating injured climbers in my clinic for the last 8 years, I’ve seen a pattern in the weakness observed which contributed to their injury. As a sport climbing technique, the heel hook provides rock climbers with another appendage—almost like a third arm—to lift their body into the next position. A higher injury risk seems obvious due to the extreme forces and the fast movements in these sports; in climbing, however, heel hooks are often performed statically. This applies to heel hooks too; if the hip is too tight or weak to support the heel hook, the extra strain is picked up by the knee. With increased input from the posterior chain we can improve our abilities on steep terrain, better use heel hooks and extended body positions and reduce our risk of injury. I went back in once and had shockwave therapy done and went back to climbing very easy grades about 2 weeks after the incident (was told this was ok). Jan 14, 2025 · However, for beginners, apart from a lack of climbing experience, placing heel hooks without having the physical means to properly engage their core and hips may increase the risk of injury. 2. While injuries to these areas are definitely common, they are all upper body injuries. Sport climbing - Climbing protected by permanent bolts spaced up the wall. For example, for proper placement and technique, the heel hook will often be placed on the outside portion of the heel. Nov 3, 2020 · Lower extremity injuries are a small subset of climbing injuries (~5 to ~13%), and most of those are from falls instead of from using the heel as a climbing implement. Heel hooks help keep your centre of mass within your base of support. 17 Depending on the severity and nature of the injury, both conservative and surgical methods exist for the Upper Extremity. This combination of movements and torsion puts excess strain on the meniscus, causing injury. This technique is unique to climbing and causes injury to muscular and inert tissues of the posterior thigh. Three reasons: injury prevention, a balanced core, and increased performance. When you execute a heel hook, you apply pressure to the hamstring and knee. 02. The applications for steep climbing are obvious – when you're hanging in a roof, or grappling with slopers on a steep wall, a deft heel-hook can turn an incredibly strenuous position into a virtual rest. How-tos, videos, and a precise 6 exercise plan for success. Top rope climbing - Climbing protected by a rope passed through an anchor at the top of the wall. Instead of planting your heel, you'll need to pull with the top of your foot. Heel placement is just as important as being able to recognize a heel-hook opportunity. To assess hip stability, Smith points to one-legged squats. So, check out the movement tips and the recommended exercises below, demonstrated by professional climber Sasha DiGiulian, to dial in your heel-hooking technique and avoid the dreaded hamstring strain. Mar 30, 2022 · The heel hook is a common and very necessary move in climbing, especially on overhanging rock. Progress to taking the other leg off the ground; Phase 6. I’ve found that when I meticulously place the heal as slowly as possible and very precisely it helps avoid injury and is more effective. Rehabbing an injured knee with a PT is one thing (still waiting for my appointment), but how do we prevent knee injuries in the first place when doing heel hooks? Warm up. Though most heel hook injuries tend to be a concentric mechanism of Apr 4, 2022 · That athletes experiencing knee injuries while performing a heel hook had a high climbing or bouldering level as well as a high weekly training workload might strengthen the theory that stronger climbers use this technique more aggressively than others and thereby injure the knee. A 2018 study by Grønhaug G. Some climbers are always looking for a heel while climbing, while others will only use a heel when it is absolutely necessary. Dec 1, 2020 · The heel hook technique has been associated with injuries to the lower extremities. These moves are the drop knee, heel hook, and high step. Reports of climbing related knee injuries alone have nearly doubled in the last 20 years 6. 17 Depending on the severity and nature of the injury, both conservative and surgical methods exist for the management of hamstring injuries. Last time I checked, we also use our lower body quite a bit when we climb. Oct 12, 2018 · Heel hooking - Range of applications. 9% to 12. This is no surprise to the climbing community, however the study went on to show that prevalence of injuries not only start high (47% in recreational climbers) but remain high (61% in intermediate climbers, 58% in advanced climbers, and 56% in elite climbers). When performing the heel hook, begin drawing your heel towards your bottom, then point your toes down and outward to further engage the leg muscles. 2 There are three climbing moves in particular that are associated with meniscus injuries. Single leg glute bridges: see progression here; Single leg glute bridge slide with pillowcase as seen here. The most common ways you will experience pain from hip impingement: Lifting your knee to your chest: such as in a high step, perch, or high heel hook May 26, 2022 · Heel hook injuries close to the knee joint have already been described in other sports (e. Jun 1, 2016 · In rock climbing, injuries of the lower extremities will increase as the heel hook is used more frequently today with changing sport preferences. Dec 1, 2023 · The heel hook is an essential climbing technique, but it also presents a risk for injury. The Heel Hook is one of those moves that can be used extensively while climbing. It has so many applications in both indoor and outdoor climbing, both in bouldering and sport climbing. Heel now seated, cam your toe in opposition — placing it under a small roof or lip, or smearing against the wall — and Knee injuries associated with the heel hook climbing technique. Mar 1, 2016 · 6 Modern competition climbs require the use of arms, legs, hands and feet to perform far more strenuous and complex movements than before, leading to new forms of injuries like heel-hook-related So you want to get better at climbing. 7% of climbing injuries we see, these heel hook injuries can present many different clinical features and thus should be further analyzed. Sep 29, 2020 · High step and drop knee injuries were more common during rope climbing, whereas heel hook and fall injuries were more often caused by bouldering. 17 Depending on the severity and nature of the injury, both conservative and surgical methods exist for the Acute hamstring injuries are often caused by the heel hook technique. But this should be looked at more closely, as the authors of this paper state that nearly 2/3rds of their patients were coming for a second opinion due to initial misdiagnosis. Lower extremity injuries may be less pervasive, but they Jun 1, 2016 · In rock climbing, injuries of the lower extremities will increase as the heel hook is used more frequently today with changing sport preferences. The hold needn’t be a bucket or otherwise incut — it can be vertical, horizontal, or slanted, if there’s a feature nearby for the toe cam. If you can't use a heel hook, a toe hook can be used instead to achieve the same goal. Oct 25, 2023 · In this video, we break down the basics of a heel hook in rock climbing, what it is, the anatomy, potential injuries and exercises. Fundamentally a heel-hook can be used to lighten the load on your arms. relation to the management of acute hamstring musculotendinous injuries for the climbing athlete. Heel hooking is a very effective and efficient climbing technique, but it is also extremely hamstring intensive. When you learn how to use the legs and arms in unison, you will be able to climb harder and more efficiently, and it will make climbing easier for you. Coronal (A) and sagittal (B) T2 fat-suppressed (FS) images demonstrate increased signal in the distal biceps femoris tendon at the insertion on the proximal fibula, compatible with partial avulsion of the biceps femoris (arrows). Therefore, it is important to further analyze this pathology. I usually do full ROM bodyweight squats and leg curl (about 15 reps) using a band attached to a squat rack. However, as I considered technical heel Jun 1, 2016 · Even though lower leg and knee injuries only account for 5. MRI shows the proper diagnosis and the proper therapeutic approach is conservative treatment. The solution to that is to strengthen the supporting muscles such as the hamstrings, glutes, and core. Heel hooks, high Nov 9, 2022 · It is characterized by pain to the front of the hip or groin, experienced when the climber moves their hip toward the end of its range of motion. Other than that, I start with easier climbs. They reduce the effort needed to maintain the last vestiges of friction on the sloper you're optimistically believing will stick. , martial arts), in which the opponent is often attacked with the legs. . The day after, I went to see an osteopath and was basically told that it was a minor rupture and to expect a full recovery in 6-8 weeks. Jan 21, 2019 · Heel hooking injuries tend to be a little different. Plan where to place your heel to maximise surface contact, looking for dips or bumps to catch the heel. Nov 16, 2020 · Acute hamstring injuries are often caused by the heel hook technique. It is all about the hamstrings. Work with me to prevent them with this FREE download to ensure you have a flexible strong hip, knee and calf for a great next season. Considered the safest with the least fall potential. The first day, my walking was very disturbed (aka limping), but after that, I could live almost normally. Which makes sense for climbing because often times we may start with a very bent heel hook but then move into a longer, extended position. tl;dr: I compensated hip flexibility with lower leg rotation for years. In addition, the number of these injuries is expected to rise with the increase in popularity of climbing and bouldering. Do these three simple exercises every week to prep for heel hooking and prevent injury to your legs. Mar 9, 2024 · Heel Placement. Apr 22, 2021 · It's a non-technical, generalised look at how to train to improve heel hooking ability and reduce injury risk from them. Injuries range from hamstring avulsion injuries, posterior cruciate ligament injuries, and posterior meniscal injuries to hamstring muscle partial thickness tears. It is known that highly flexible fighters (Imanari, current world champ Musemeci) can resist this pressure and are very difficult to secure this submission on. Nov 16, 2022 · The heel hook is a move in climbing where you place your foot on a hold or ledge and apply pressure with the heel of your climbing shoe. Nov 8, 2022 · Heel hook; Uncontrolled fall or unprotected fall; Among these four different mechanisms of injury, ACL tears are the third most common injury, behind medial meniscus tear and IT band sprain, respectively. A heel hook requires the climber to engage the posterior chain musculature of the leg, notably the hamstrings, in driving the trunk upwards. You spend hours looking up hangboard routines and finding the latest and greatest grip strength devices, but what about your lower body? There’s a reason why beginner climbers are told to climb with their feet. 4 For this section, focus will When we think of climbing injuries, most of us jump right to finger, elbow, and shoulder injuries. About 11 weeks ago I injured my hamstring doing a heel hook. In particular, intense knee hooks when bouldering lead to heavy loads on the knee. In high elevation heel hooking the stretch type variation reported by us, may cause serious injuries. Oct 29, 2023 · The first heels you throw will likely be low and at normal foot height, but eventually you’ll master heel hooks above your head. Oct 29, 2024 · The researchers also found that high step and drop knee injuries were more common when rope climbing, while heel hook and fall injuries were more often caused by bouldering. Injuries can commonly result from the infamous heel hook: a technique that has the climber position their heel on the hold with the knee either fully straight or slight bent. Dec 1, 2020 · The heel hook technique has been associated with injuries to the lower extremity ranging from hamstring avulsion injuries, posterior cruciate ligament injuries, and posterior meniscal injuries to hamstring muscle partial thickness tears. Feb 16, 2023 · when To Heel Hook in climbing. Trad climbing - Climbing without fixed protection. So if you are wondering how to improve your climbing technique, the answer is, by using climbing techniques that focus on footwork, like the heel hook technique. May 3, 2017 · He adds that a drop knee injury could result from a lack of hip mobility or stability, causing the climber to compensate by twisting the knee too much. Even following surgery, the expected time to function is up to 8,5 months . Place with care Frog pose. I felt 3 pops on in my hip whilst I was pulling my hips upwards during the hook. Disclaimer: The informatio Return to climbing on steeper terrain but avoid heel hooks; Start with climbing-specific hamstring strengthening as seen here: Phase 5. MRI shows the proper diagnosis and the proper therapeutic approach is conservative treatment with stress reduction. The heel hook exercise is part of the climbing drills performed in military training and is designed to improve a soldier’s ability to pull themselves up and hook their legs onto a ledge, rope, or rail. Knee injuries associated with the heel hook climbing technique. Most of the injuries I see occur in the shoulder, elbow, wrist and hand, and the remainder are in the ankle due to falls or bad landings, the hamstrings (popping during heel hooks) and the lower back. Our lower bodies are the unsung powerhouse of climbing. The t … One injury mechanism described in case reports is the so-called heel hook position, which is used more frequently today compared with the beginngs of rock climbing. The outcome after heel hook injuries is good to excellent in most of the cases. Patients injured during the heel hook position had the highest ability level and highest training volume per week while patients injured during a fall had the lowest ability level. There was no significant difference in how the injury was caused between non-competitive and competitive athletes, although medial meniscal tears were more frequent in Doing a boulder problem involving compression and heel hooks (the amazing Super Martikainen , 7c+, in Åland), I felt sharp pain in the back of the right knee while heel hooking with this leg. Jan 4, 2019 · Injuries are common during a heel hook, since it recruits muscles that aren’t often trained while climbing. A traumatic fall is by far one of the most common culprits for multi-ligamentous knee injuries; but heel hooks may be the greatest offender to injuring the strongest ligament in the knee — the posterior cruciate ligament, commonly referred to as the PCL. Oct 15, 2021 · In rock climbing, the heel hook is a maneuver that elevates your heel above your torso, allowing you to propel your body weight with your leg muscles. Mar 25, 2025 · The heel hook is an exercise primarily used in climbing and bouldering but can also be part of specific fitness and military training regimens. Jul 22, 2023 · Injuries can commonly result from the infamous heel hook: a technique that has the climber position their heel on the hold with the knee either fully straight or slightly bent. This allows you to pull with your leg muscles to draw yourself close to the wall, achieve a stable body position, rest, shift your body weight, and even generate force for your next move. All variations thus far have been using the back of the heel as the contact point on the ground or elevated platform. 9 During the last 5 years (2010−2014) we saw 17 climbers with injuries due to this specific technique. In sport climbing both the running as well as the stretch type of hamstring lesions are known due to heel hooking . Jul 12, 2020 · You see, research has shown that working the long chain, which means training the muscle in a lengthened position rather than a shortened one, is also an effective way of preventing injuries. Pressure is applied outwards towards the toe and inwards towards the heel to threaten a knee (ACL) injury, the same injury a climber would sustain from a climbing heel hook. g. Never just slap your heel on something and expect it to hold or help. FREE. found that 41. Now reteaching myself the "correct" movement. May 10, 2011 · One injury mechanism described in case reports is the so-called heel hook position, which is used more frequently today compared with the beginngs of rock climbing. 3% of climbing injuries involve the fingers. Keywords: rehabilitation, heel hook, hamstring injury, climbing injury Jun 1, 2016 · One injury mechanism described in case reports is the so-called heel hook position, which is used more frequently today compared with the beginngs of rock climbing. Jun 15, 2012 · The basic heel-toe is your building block. 14-16 In these sports, the factor of velocity adds to the injury impact, which makes it more likely to tear an anterior cruciate than in the more static aspect of the heel hook pull in climbing. The heel hook is used by climbers during strenuous ascent on overhanging walls and when Feb 25, 2020 · Knee pain is common among climbers. Heel hooking technique Nov 29, 2023 · The heel hook technique has been associated with injuries to the lower extremity ranging from hamstring avulsion injuries, posterior cruciate ligament injuries, and posterior meniscal injuries to hamstring muscle partial thickness tears. To initiate, first jab a heel onto a likely hold, ideally one of at least heel width. If you don't think this is important, maybe you don't even climb hardDue to the Heel hook knee and hamstring injuries are the worst. For the past few years, I've been experiencing sharp pain at the lower right side of my right knee during heel hooking. In the worst case, they may terminate the career of Mar 29, 2019 · Utilize a toe hook if a heel hook isn't possible. For all 3 MOIs, a peak load is suspected to cause the injury Nov 29, 2023 · In rock climbing, injuries of the lower extremities will increase as the heel hook is used more frequently today with changing sport preferences. As far as injury with heel hooks, I started working a route that included several important heal hooks not long ago. But it's also the source of much woe, from hamstring tears to knee injuries. Episode 50! This episode is a MONSTER. Klaus Isele, physiotherapist and osteopath, explains to us in today's guest post what the so-called "Hooker's knee" is, what you can do in the case of knee pain and how it differs from other knee pain. Because it’s so hamstring intensive, it’s usually the mechanism of injury for hamstring strains in climbing. Since these body parts aren’t commonly used during climbing, they’re at a higher at risk for getting hurt. In climbing, our heel hook placements are often not in this exact downward angle. Start in a stable position with all 4 limbs in contact with the wall. Toe hooks are similar to heel hooks in what they are used for. 1 With Jan 14, 2025 · However, for beginners, apart from a lack of climbing experience, placing heel hooks without having the physical means to properly engage their core and hips may increase the risk of injury. Despite the pain being on and off, it was severe enough that I actively avoided boulders with right heel hooks. Mar 21, 2022 · The more you practice, the better you will become at recognizing when heel hooks are appropriate. The climber attaches the rope to these bolts as they ascend. The heel hook is used by climbers during strenuous ascent on overhanging walls and when crossing difficult terrain. Begin incorporating easier heel hooks in In climbing and bouldering, injuries of the knee will further increase due to modern training and competition modes requiring the use of heel hooks. The review provides a comprehensive approach for the rehabilitation and athletic preparation of the climbing athlete from the initial injury to full return to sports participation. THE KNEE HEEL HOOK INJURY Surprisingly, injuries to the knee while performing a heel hook are also described in martial arts. jvgeq xmzrgs fqxw abwry miomvxq qql oksozn cacbgvf liabk mbs