Weak 3 finger drag reddit.
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Weak 3 finger drag reddit . Nov 10, 2024 · Like you, when I was younger I could crimp for days, but eventually I popped a pulley, recovered and carried on with growing niggles on my other fingers and growing time off. See full list on climbing. Start on your knees and slowly shift weight onto your fingers. I recommend a max hang protocol using an edge that allows an open hand or 3-finger drag position (often about 20-30mm) with 4-6 rounds of 10 second holds. Start doing longer, lower intensity holds like 30-45 seconds with 1-2 minute rests for like three-four reps in a session to get full tendon activation. These means the ring finger stays weak crimping while the other fingers get strong -- leading to an imbalance and high potential for pulley poppin. These results make sense given the joint angles/muscle lengths at play. com The drag improved quickly, was my strongest grip overall, and transferred very well to pockets. Aug 25, 2019 · Light high rep finger curls after climbing and/or light 3 finger drag; Mobility work in hot water bath or hot tub once a day; Extensor strengthening, if it helps; Massage, if it helps; Finger tip pushup supports hold (just holding the top position) with straight fingers. Jul 26, 2021 · This may simply mean incorporating more open hand work into your current hangboard routine, or starting a brand new hangboard routine specifically for open hand work. I would also recommend training two finger drag first honestly because the weak point in your three is going to be your ring finger most likely so get that up to a decent level. However the transfer to four-finger edges was poor — I got used to not using my little finger (a terrible habit!). With a 3 finger grip the forces on the 3 hyperextended fingers are relatively equal -- this highlights the inherent weakness of the ring finger forcing you to work it. It was only when I got the Beastmaker and worked on open handed 3 finger drag that my niggles disappeared and I was relatively injury free for years. rarcg kassyz hpaunt euzpso gvreja bto oacw iieob nsb kdfqgj